February 09, 2004
Surfing Weekend!
Just returned last night from a weekend of surfing along the Torquay coastline which was awesome! A good friend of mine Jeff competed in a triathalon in Portarlington on sunday morning, so Jeff, Michael and I drove down to Torquay saturday afternoon for a surf beforehand, stayed overnight in Portarlington and went for another session all day sunday.
Conditions were good, the swell was around 4-6 feet saturday, and 3-5 feet on sunday. Wind was slightly onshore but mostly light, so we had almost glassy conditions which made paddling really easy.
I caught lots of waves and are sunburnt red like a lobster today from it all! but totally stoked about getting back into the water :)
There was one wave in particular that was I really fond of - about 5 feet in size. I caught it with only a few paddle strokes and stood up to take the drop, with only my toes touching the board as I flew down the face of the wave. At the bottom made a sharp right turn back onto the face and surfed along the break into shore. One of those moments which eternally paints a smile onto your face :)